China
-Yangtze River-
A cruise along the Yangtze River -the largest in China- is like a journey through history. The Ba hanging coffins of the Three Gorges -some of them soon to be lost to the rising waters- are an example of China's ancient culture and the dam at the Three Gorges is an example of modern engineering.
Yangtze River cruises, a journey through history
The Yangtze begins at the southern foothills of Geladandong Peak in the Tanggula Mountains of Qinhai Province. From there it stretches 3,938 miles (6,300 km) past six provinces, including Tibet, Jiangsu and Shanghai, finally emptying into the East China Sea.
Along this sometimes muddy waterway are some of the oldest human sites and artifacts known. The Ba, for example, were an ancient civilization that developed here 4,000 years ago who buried their dead in coffins raised high among the cliffs. The Ba believed the higher you were buried, the better for your soul.
Though many of these sites and artifacts are now being submerged as the Three Gorges Dam construction project proceeds, river tours still offer hundreds of fascinating sights. Tours often mix sights from the cruise boats as well as walking tours of the area.
Cruises visit Shibaozhai, home of the 12-story temple built in 1650 AD, with a view of the Yangtze below. There are excursions that take tourists down tributaries like the clear Daning River, offering awe-inspiring views of the canyons and rural villages along its banks.
Some trips will take visitors past the Three Gorges dam where waters are rising to eventually generate almost 4% of all the electricity in China in the largest construction project in history.
Squeezed between sheer cliffs covered in vegetation and inhabited by a variety of wildlife, visitors will experience periods of leisurely meandering alternating with rushing waters. Not far from Chongqing some tours pass through Kuimen, the Kui Gate where the roaring river races through. Qutang Gorge is just down river, with sights of breathtaking precipices.
In the middle of the Three Gorges section is Wu Gorge, where the Yangtze flows through the Wushan Moutains. Rugged peaks are adorned with ancient trees and colorful flowers, while the rushing waters create heavy mist.
Here, you pass the famous Twelve Peaks, including the Goddess Peak. Partly mist-covered, the mythological region will remind travelers of traditional Chinese paintings.
Moving down to the Xiling Gorge, the river picks up speed and begins to form rapids and roiling whirlpools. Thanks to more modern boat technology, clearing of obstacles, and experienced guides, visitors need not fear suffering the fate of so many who rode through this section.
Many of the large ships cruising the river have been in operation only a few years and are fully maintained. The Princess Sheena, for example, was built in Germany in 1993 and designed to Western standards of safety and comfort.
Ships are stabilized and have powerful engines to navigate the sometimes difficult shoals and turns. They also offer fully purified water and air-conditioning with the most advanced navigation equipment.
Some offer deluxe cabin suites with a separate bedroom and living room, along with a kitchenette. Even the single staterooms come complete with refrigerator and bathroom. All offer excellent views out the windows and on deck.
Communications on board are sometimes spotty, but many have Norwegian-designed satellites for mobile phone communications. The Chinese are the largest group of mobile phone users in the world with almost 400 million sets in use.
But visitors will find so much to see they'll rarely have time for phoning, nor will they want to spend much time indoors. The Yangtze River cruises are an outdoor excursion which provide travelers with an experience they might otherwise see only in the movies.
The Ba hanging coffins
Most ancient civilizations buried their dead under the ground, a few burned them on pyres. But there are some that placed bodies of the dead in coffins and hung the coffins on a precipice.
Examples of the latter can be found in many locations throughout China. Some of those are placed on wooden beams projecting out from rock, others are on the rocks themselves. Still others are merely placed in caves high up a cliff face. Some were even suspended on wooden stakes above the ground or stuck into the cliff face.
Coffins have been found from 18 counties in various provinces, some containing hundreds of samples. The age of some preserved artifacts ranges over 13 centuries from the Jin Dynasty (265AD-420AD) to the Ming Dynasty (1368AD-1644AD). But the practice dates much further back. Archaeologists have found hanging coffins in Wuyi Mountain from as far back as the Zhou Dynasty (1027BC-777BC).
One of the most well-known examples are the Ba Hanging Coffins of the Three Gorges. Some of these are - or soon will be - lost forever as the waters of the river rise. That change was brought about by the Three Gorges River dam project which is flooding sections that were previously high above the river's surface.
Most of these contain the remains of Ba people, an ancient ethnic Chinese group centered around what is now Yibin City. When buried, the wooden coffin - many containing weapons, food containers and decorated with Tiger carvings - would be placed high up the cliff face. These people are believed to be among the original engineers and workers of China's famed Silk Road.
Preserved examples of the coffins can be found in various museums around the country. Dozens are housed in the Yibin Museum in Gong Xian. Others can be seen in Wuyi in the Fujian Province. Still more are stored in Yingtan City in Jiang Xi. And, for a while, viewing the Ba Hanging Coffins of the Three Gorges is possible as part of one of the many tours down the river.
The Ba culture survived for over 3,000 years but the last known descendant is believed to have died out as recently as 400 years ago though the funeral practice ended centuries earlier. The earliest known example of their funeral practices is believed to be one dating 2,500 years ago found at Three Gorges.
Why this ancient people began this practice, or what significance it may have had for them, is not known. Some believe that suspending the body high above the ground confered honor. It isn't even known with certainty how they achieved some of the engineering feats involved in placing coffins so far up a cliff, distant from the top of the mountain.
But whatever the answers to these questions are, the Ba Hanging Coffins continue to fascinate visitors to China generation after generation. Come find out why.
The Three Gorges Dam
One of the largest projects ever attempted, The Three Gorges dam spanning the Yangtze river in Sandouping has been under construction since 1994, having been in various planning stages for 50 years before that.
When completed in 2009, the dam will produce over 3% of China's electricity. That number may seem small, but given the size of the country, that small percentage is an enormous amount: 28 billion kilowatt hours annually from the one dam.
Few dams on this scale have ever been attempted, much less completed on time and under budget. But the Three Gorges is well on the way to being just that. This despite the typical corruption and controversy surrounding any project of the kind.
Tourists, fortunately, don't have to take any interest in that. The dam and the surrounding area provides its own grand topics to focus on. The Three Gorges themselves extend upriver from the dam for nearly 200km toward Chong Qing.
Furthest from the dam, closest to Chong Qing, is the Qutang Gorge, only 5.1 miles (8.3 km) long. But it offers a view from the river of dramatic 500 ft (150 m) high cliffs, topped by limestone peaks over 4,000 ft (1,200 m) above.
The Wu Gorge follows with its own sheer cliffs, surrounded by clouds that obscure their great heights. The mist covered surroundings will remind many of jungle movies, similar to the King Kong epic.
The gorge closest to the dam itself is the Xi Ling Gorge. Stretching over 42.5 miles (68 km), the verdant passageway looks more like a movie set itself than the astounding natural setting it is.
Some cruises up the river are offered in two stages. After the first leg on larger ships, visitors will disembark and board small sampans to explore some of the Yangtze's tributaries. As the dam project proceeds, flooding more areas of the river to higher points, visitors can see more views than ever of the surrounding area.
Travelers will have an opportunity to stop in Fu Ling and ride a hydrofoil up the Wu River to visit the Lotus Cave limestone rock formations. Another stop is at the Stone Treasure Stockade, Shibaozhai, on the northern bank of the Yangtze. Completed in the late 18th century, the 12-story structure is sure to be a highlight of the trip.
On the final leg of the journey, there's a stop near the construction site. A stellar opportunity to snap some photographs of this magnificent structure, guides give an account of the project in both Chinese and English.
Some treks are as short as a few hours, some last for days while traveling in air-conditioned cabins. Many offer side trips to visit the Ba Hanging coffin area (book soon before the rising waters bury them forever), and other fascinating sights.
But whichever you choose, don't miss an opportunity to visit this gargantuan project along the world's third largest river.
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