Exploring the delights of French wines
A selection of French wines covering many of the regions.
Exploring less known wines and wine producing regions in France is worth it.
Wine tasting May 2009
1531 Blanquette de Limoux Non vintage alcohol 12.5%
Blanquette is the traditional sparkling wine of Limoux, in the Languedoc, and the area claims to have produced the first sparkling wine, 150 years before Champagne. The name “1531” is reputedly the year in which the Benedictine monks discovered sparkling wine. Traditionally, the local grape, the Mauzac, was harvested late in the autumn and so the fermentation started slowly in the colder Limoux winters and the second fermentation happened much later, in the spring. It is 90% Mauzac, the minimum level required by the appellation, 5% Chardonnay and 5% Chenin Blanc. The Mauzac grapes give the wine good acidity and freshness. Limoux also produces a Cremant de Limoux sparkling wine made from mainly Chardonnay grapes with a little Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir. Both wines are produced by the Champagne method. Champagne is not the only place to produce sparkling wines. Other parts of France produce worthwhile sparkling wine using the Champagne method. These include Buvet-Ladubay from near Saumur in the Loire and Cremant de Bourgogne.
Chateau Clément Termes Blanc Sec 2006 alcohol 12%
Gaillac is one of the most historic areas of south west France with a long wine history going back to Roman times. Its heyday was probably in the Middle Ages when the wines of Gaillac were much sought after and a favorite of Henry VIII who ordered 20 barrels of Gaillac per year,. The area produces wonderfully expressive wines that sadly are now little known elsewhere. As is often the case, less fashionable wines can be tremendous value and far removed from increasingly formulaic wines. Chateau Clément Termes is a delightful chateau that has been in the same family for 160 years. This wine is an intriguing blend of Mauzac, Loin de l’Oeil and Muscadelle. Crisp and refreshing with complex floral, herbal and fruit notes; a wine that would go well with chicken and fish.<
Henri Bourgeois La Grille Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays du Loire 2007 alcohol 12%
For many years the Middle Loire of France was a main source of Sauvignon Blanc – Sauvignon de Touraine – with smaller and more expressive quantities coming from the Upper Loire – Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé. These areas remain important but have been eclipsed by newer areas including New Zealand and Chile. New World Sauvignon Blanc deservedly receives much praise and it is easy to overlook examples from France. Although Bordeaux is now primarily a red wine region, areas such as Graves and Bergerac are producing Sauvignon blanc, often with a little Semillon, that are more restrained and complex. The cool Upper Loire continues to produce mineral toned, mouth filling Sauvignon Blanc that is very distinctive. This wine is from one of the most respected Loire producers, Henri Bourgeois. He is a Sancerre specialist and many of his wines retail at expensive prices. The grapes for this wine are grown just outside the Sancerre appellation and have to be labeled Vin de Pays. However, the wine has all the hallmarks of a quality Sancerre at a fraction of the price.<
Cave de Beblenheim Pinot Gris Reserve 2007 alcohol 13%
Pinot Gris is the same grape as Pinot Grigio grown in Italy; same grape but very different characteristics. Italian Pinot Grigio is extremely popular outside Italy with the inevitable result that standards have fallen and disappointment levels are often high. Of course, good Pinot Gris can still be found but the bland overweight the best. Alsace produces some of the world’s most aromatic wines. The cool climate and long growing season helps create the flavor intensity. The four “noble” grapes of Alsace are Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. The best version from the best sites are classified as AOC Grand Cru and are generally expensive… These Grand Cru wines can be very rich and long lasting. Most Alsace whites are a little off dry. This wine is made from 100% Pinot Gris. It is a fresh and aromatic wine that would go well with smoked fish and meats.<
Mount Tauch Le Village du Sud Rosé Vin de Pays d’Oc 2007 alcohol 13%
Mount Tauch is a major cooperative based in Tuchan in the Languedoc. It produces a wide range of mainly red wine. The Le Village du Sud range is new. This wine is made from Grenache. The label has a picture of Sophie, a flower seller from Tuchan. She is described on the Mont Tauch website as “a very popular character in the village and not just for sweet smelling flowers.” This is a refreshing, strawberry flavored wine that would go well with salads and cold meats. Rosé wine is now produced in most regions of France from a wide range of red grapes.
Preignes Petit Verdot 2005 alcohol 13%
Many Old World grapes have found new homes in the New World and in some cases have settled in growing conditions that bring out the best in the variety. In some situation the grape has virtually died out in its former homeland. Occasionally, an Old World grape takes on a new lease of life in the Old World because its characteristics become more fashionable. An example is the Petit Verdot grape which was once considered a classic Bordeaux variety that added weight and a little spice to the blend. It is late ripening, later than even Cabernet Sauvignon, and therefore historically it has been inconsistent in Bordeaux. Over the years, therefore, it has lost acreage in Bordeaux. However, the increased popularity of wines with a little spiciness – Syrah or Shiraz – combined with global warming has led to something of a recent renaissance in Bordeaux. More and more producers are looking to add a small percentage of Petit Verdot to the blend. Further south in the warmer Languedoc, near Berziers, Petit Verdot is more reliable. This wine is, unusually, made from 100% Petit Verdot by a 1000 years old estate. Although the price is modest, the wine won the trophy for the best Vin de Pays. It will give notes of plum, chocolate, cherry and vanilla with a gentle spiciness. This is an easy drinking, warming wine that will go well with a range of red meats and hard cheese.
Delas Saint-Esprit Cotes-du-Rhone 2007 alcohol 13.5%
The Rhone continues to be a source of affordable wines with plenty of character. Wines from the Northern Rhone are mainly Syrah dominated while those from the much larger Southern Rhone tend to have a wider range of grapes with Grenache the most prominent. This wine gives little away on the label and could suggest something ordinary. It is not. This is a wine that has received many high accolades including a 90 score from Robert Parker. Unusually, it is 75% Syrah, 25% Grenache. To add to the confusion, the grapes are grown in the Southern Rhone and the winery is in the Northern Rhone. Saint-Esprit is the name of the small valley near the village of Saint-Julien. The soil is granite and this gives an added concentration of flavors to the grapes – creating a smooth, elegant wine with structure and finesse and notes of black cherries, spice and chocolate. 2007 was a particularly good vintage for the Rhone, and more so for the Southern Rhone. Robert Parker described it as “the vintage of a lifetime.”<
Les Vieilles Vignes de Chateau Maris 2007 alcohol 15%
Minervois is part of the Languedoc. La Liviniere is a small, newly created – just 1997 – appellation within Minervois. The village of La Liviniere is the first village in the Languedoc that has been allowed to add its name after the main appellation… signifying a recognized and approved high quality. Chateau Maris is a biodynamic estate owned by the son of Sir Anthony Eden, and the wines are also vegetarian or vegan. This particularly wine is made mainly from 90 year old low yielding Syrah with a small amount of Carignan making it a full bodied wine with hints of spice. It goes particularly well with spiced roast lamb.<
Chateau Bujan Cotes de Bourg 2005 alcohol 13.5%
Cotes de Bourg is an appellation on the right bank of the Gironde and opposite the left bank property of Chateau Margaux. Wines here are predominantly Merlot. The appellation produces wines of quality and value that are more affordable than better known Bordeaux areas such as Saint Emilion. 2005 was an exceptional vintage throughout the region. This wine is from a small, family owned vineyard and is 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. This is a smooth, fruity wine that would go particularly well with roast lamb.<
La Bastide Blanche Bandol 2006 alcohol 14.5%
Bando is a small but increasingly important area within Provence centre don the port of Bandol The appellation regulations require a minimum of 75% Mourvedre grape. Yields are extremely low and the resulting wines are extremely concentrated in flavor. This wine is mainly Mourvedre but also has a small amount of Syrah and Grenache. Intense flavor of black fruits, rich and spicy. Goes well with hearty meat dishes.