Notes from the wine tating October 2010 featuring a selection of South African wines.
Graham Beck Brut, Western Cape - Non vintage, alcohol 12.0%
Graham Beck is one of the largest South African producers with estates in many parts of the country. The tasting wine is a blend of 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir. It is made using the Champagne method but for legal reasons the term used is Methode Cape Classique. The blended wine is rested in the bottle for a minimum of 2 years before disgorging. A rich, creamy wine with a light yeasty aroma. Goes well as an aperitif and with seafood and lighter foods. A worthwhile alternative is Villiera (also Classique method) available at M&S for around £7.50. This is a 100% Chardonnay wine made from grapes grown in Stellenbosch. This later wine is a little fruitier – peaches, perhaps - and lighter than the Graham Beck.
Springfield Sauvignon Blanc, Robertson - 2009, alcohol 13.0%
The Springfield Estate, like many estates in South Africa, has Huguenot origins dating back to the late seventeenth century. The tasting wine is produced in the Robertson district on soils that are high in flint. It is called an Estate Wine because all of the grapes are grown on a single (or neighbouring) vineyard. The particular grapes used for this wine come from the estate's highest rated vineyard and is the reason it is called Special Cuvée. A wine that has won many awards and is somewhere between Loire and New Zealand styles. There are pronounced mineral notes that derive from the mineral soil. A wine that would go well with richer fish dishes such as fish pie or shellfish. Plantings of Sauvignon Blanc continue to increase - often at the expense of Chenin Blanc. The coastal areas which have a cooler climate and often more calcareous soils are often the preferred sites.
Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc - Coastal Region. 2009, alcohol 13%
Chenin Blanc may have lost some of its dominance - plantings have reduced from 32% to 18% in 10 years - but it remains the country's most widely planted grape. Chenin Blanc is sometimes called Steen. It is a grape that deserves better appreciation, but perhaps suffers from its previous dominance in the country and association with variable quality wine, particularly prior to the end of apartheid. The focus on planting more international and commercial grape varieties means that there are few new plantings of Chenin Blanc and the existing vines are often old. Chenin Blanc has its home in the middle Loire where it produces dry and sweet as well as sparkling wines. However, the generally warmer Mediterranean climates of South Africa and the longer ripening season usually give more reliable results. The wines are also often richer, more complex particularly from the late harvest grapes. The tasting wine is made from 100% Chenin Blanc grapes grown in several regions from vines averaging 40 years. Lightly oaked, it has quite complex tropical fruit, such as peaches, honeysuckle and mild spicy notes. This wine would go well with creamier, chicken dishes. There are many other, lower priced, Chenin Blanc wines available.
Beyers Truter Pinotage, Stellenbosch. 2008, alcohol 14.5%
The Pinotage grape is a hybrid between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut and was created in Stellenbosch in 1925. Cinsaut was previously called Hermitage in South Africa hence the name Pinotage. Pinotage did not appear on a South African wine label until 1961 - previously used as an undisclosed blend. Shortly after its first usage there was a major marketing initiative to “reveal” this new South African grape. Unfortunately, the early Pinotage wines were almost universally slated by UK wine writers. These early wines had acetone – paint, rubber, industrial - notes that were far from what was expected from a red wine. Production standards have increased and there is now a well established Pinotage Society in South Africa dedicated to furthering the acceptance of the grape. The uncertainty about the grape has often led to its inclusion in a blend rather than a single varietal. “Cape Blends” tend to have a significant Pinotage content. Where the grape is 100% of the wine the producer may often tone down the tannins, smooth out the character and make it more of an old world style. Beyers Truter, the winemaker, is often referred to as the Pinotage King. Truter is a part owner of the Beyerskloof estate which produces well rated Pinotage. Truter also now has his own estate which produces the tasting wine. It uses French oak, has dark fruit such as blackberry, liquorice, raspberry and smoky spice notes. This wine would go well with hearty red meat dishes.
La Motte Cabernet Sauvignon. Franschhoek. 2007, alcohol 14%
South African Cabernet Sauvignon wines tend to be fairly expensive but can compare favorably with many similarly priced Bordeaux wines. Often these wines are made in an old world style (including French oak) but with higher alcohol levels and greater fruit intensity. South African Cabernet Sauvignon is well capable of considerable ageing. The tasting wine is made in the Franschhoek Valley which is the centre of the Huguenot influence. It is described as the classic style South African Cabernet Sauvignon. Intense blackcurrant notes together with hints of violets, mint and plum. The tannins are well rounded making this a wine that can be enjoyed by itself...but better with roast beef, venison and mature cheddar.
La Motte Shiraz, Franschhoek. 2008, alcohol 13.5%
Shiraz is now the second most planted red grape (after Cabernet Sauvignon) in South Africa. Styles vary but tend to favour the Rhone style... Complexity with generally more modest alcohol levels than Australian Shiraz. The tasting wine is a good example of a South African Shiraz. The peppery/spicy characteristics of the grape are evident but not overpowering. This wine would go well with game and spicy meat dishes. A wine representing an example of a midway South African style, perhaps not as in your face as many Australian versions and closer to the Rhone style,
Dieu Donné Cabernet Sauvignon, Franschhoek. 1997, alcohol 13.5%
Dieu Donné - God given - is a property situated 650 metre high on the south west slopes of the Franschhoek mountains. The winery offers wonderful views across the valleys as well as having a very good restaurant. The soil is weathered granite which together with the cooler temperatures at this altitude provide greater concentration of the grape characteristics. The slow ripening at altitude helps good acidity levels which contribute to ageing potential. The tasting wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. When made the projected ideal drinking time was 2007 to 2012. Current information from the winemaker confirms that the wine should now be at its best. The tannins should be soft and the notes dense violet, blackcurrant, cassis and earthy spice. Hopefully, this is an example of how good South African wines can age well. Regrettably, aged South African wines are hard to find in the UK and can therefore be high priced.