Wonderful summer wines
Notes from the wine tasting May 2010.
Summer wines should have specific characteristics.
Introducing English wine for the first time. Most English vineyards are within easy reach of London and summer is the time to visit the countryside... have an English wine tour this summer.
La Marca Prosecco Cuvée, north east Italy, extra dry, non-vintage, alcohol 11.5%
Prosecco is the name of the grape. Although still wine is made from the Prosecco grape, most Prosecco is the sparkling wine made from that grape using the Charmat or closed tank method. Two types of Prosecco sparkling wine are available… Spumante – that is to say sparkling – ant the rarer Frizzante – that is less fizz. It is produced in north east Italy, near Venice. In general, Prosecco is a light, fragrant, softly sparkling wine often with notes of peaches. It is the wine used with peach juices to make the Bellini cocktail. Prosecco is increasingly popular and widely available. The tasting wine produced in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene area, generally regarded as the best area for Prosecco. It is drier than most Prosecco and with a little more pronounced fruit notes, higher priced than most generally available Prosecco. Prosecco sales have risen in recent years. Its lighter style makes it particularly suitable for summer drinking.
Villa Farnia di Farnese Pecorino, Terre di Chieti, Abruzzo, east central Italy, 2008 alcohol 13%
Italy has more grape varieties than any other country. Amongst the lowest volume and least known varieties is Pecorino – nothing to do with the cheese by the same name. This is a variety that almost died out but was rescued when a few vines were found, cuttings taken from them and adopted by a few growers in central Italy. The tasting wine is from grapes grown in the small wine area of Terre di Chieti, near the small town of Chieti, which is on the Adriatic coast, opposite Rome. It is produced by the Farnese company and is part of a range called Villa Farnia. This is an elegant wine that has interesting spicy, apple, nut and citrus notes, goes well with the abundant local seafood… and other light summer foods as an aperitif.
Biddenden Gribble Bridge Ortega, 2009, alcohol 12.5%
English wine continues to progress. Since 1992 there has been a classification system… Table Wine, Regional Wine, English Wineyards Quality Wine psr – produced in a specific region. The latter is the highest and subject to independent scrutiny. Volumes vary considerably from year to year – 3.1 million bottles produced in 2009 versus 1.3 million in 2008. The major growth area is sparkling wine which is attracting major overseas investment. Historically UK wines have been Germanic – similar northerly climate – but there is now greater focus on more international varieties including Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The tasting wine is from the Biddenden Estate near Tenterden in Kent. It is 100% Ortega grape. Medium dry, works well as an aperitif or with lighter foods. Not many wines go well with mint flavored dishes, but this one does.
Excelsior Paddock Sauvignon Blanc, Robertson, South Africa, 2009, alcohol 13.5%
Sauvignon Blanc has its traditional home in the Loire Valley. For many years Sauvignon de Touraine – the middle Loire – was the major source with more expensive version coming from the Upper Loire – Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé. Things changed dramatically with the launch of New Zealand Cloudy Bay in 1986. Almost overnight expectations of Sauvignon Blanc changed. The desired and expected characteristics were highly aromatic, strong gooseberry and green / herbal notes. Since then, the Marlborough region of New Zealand’s south island has many more Sauvignon Blanc producers the biggest being Oyster Bay. Chile also produces vast quantities of Sauvignon Blanc at very reasonable prices. Almost all Sauvignon Blanc is unoaked – fermented and matured in stainless steel or other inert containers. Taste characteristics can range from tropical notes – warmer areas – to more restrained green and mineral notes. The enormous range of Sauvignon Blanc styles and prices can sometimes make choice difficult. South African wine might be worth considering. Often South African wine is characterized as being somewhere between Old and New World styles. The tasting wine is an example of this… a wine that has some mineral notes – as the Upper Loire – with richer gooseberry and green pepper notes – reminiscent of New Zealand. A crisp, refreshing wine that goes well with salads, grilled fish and light chicken dishes. Henri Bourgeois La Grille is a French Sauvignon Blanc, elegant, mineral driven and a reasonable value.
Soleado Chardonnay - Central Valley, Chile – 2009 alcohol 13%
This is an unoaked Chardonnay from Chile. The citrus, melon, apple and pineapple notes are not obscured by oak. This wine is smooth, fresh, and easy drinking; not a “great” wine but one that might be particularly refreshing on a summer’s day either by itself or with salads and poached salmon. Inexpensive.
Torres San Medin Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé – Central Valley, Chile – 2009 alcohol 13%
For the last three years Rosé wine has been the fastest growing segment in Europe, mainly the UK where it represents a 10% of all wine sales. This growth reflects the considerable increase in the numbers of Rosé available and their increase in quality and diversity of styles. Rosé wine is made from any kind of red grape. The color of any red wine comes from the skin of the grape which releases its pigments during fermentation. To produce Rosé wine, the skins are removed early in the fermentation process, before all the color has been leached out. Always a matter of personal preference, of course, but many Rosé wines may lack substance or be somewhat of a confection – as the Californian style. The tasting wine is produced by the Spanish Torres company. It is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a particularly attractive color. It releases, on tasting, notes off strawberries and plums with hits of grapefruit in the background plus interesting floral notes. This is a wine refreshing by itself or with cold meats and perhaps mildly spiced Oriental dishes.
Domaine de Côtes Remont – Chenas, Beaujolais – 2007 – alcohol 13%
Beaujolais is a delightful, rolling area south of Burgundy. It is characterized by small villages, some of which give their names to a particular appellation. For many people, however, Beaujolais means Beaujolais Nouveau. The latter was created in 1958 by Georges Duboeuf and rapidly became a wine that people drank regardless of quality… being the first to drink it was the important thing. At its peak, Nouveau represented around 60% of all Beaujolais sales. These days, Nouveau is regarded as an inferior wine that is bottled about 6 weeks after harvest and often struggles to taste like wine – banana notes are common. The image of Beaujolais is further compounded by the structure of the region. There are 12 Cru villages that can put their name on the label – but do not mention Beaujolais. The next level down is Beaujolais-Villages and 38 villages are allowed to use this term – but not their village name. The lowest level is simply Beaujolais. Georges Duboeuf is still the largest Beauolais producer – with 30% of the total production. Although views may differ, Georges Duboeuf does not represent the real Beaujolais. Although all Beaujolais has to be produced from the Gamay grape, styles vary greatly among appellations due to soil and other aspects of terroir. Fleurie, for instance, is floral, fruity and delicate – and the most popular Beaujolais in the UK. The tasting wine is produced by a small estate dating back to the eighteen century. The producer is part of a group of 12 lady producers – Etoiles in Baujolais – formed in 1998 to promote the best of Baujolais. Chénas is the smallest Beaujolais Cru. It has floral (rose) and spicy notes. Best served slightly chilled - 14°C.Goes well with white meats, delicatessen, or cheese. Good choice for a picnic summer wine. Like all goog Beaujolais, it will keep for around 6 years – but expect it to lose some of its fruity youthfulness. Wine from independent, smaller Beaujolais producers is harder to find.
Zuccardi Santa Julia Bonarda–Sangiovese – Mendoza, Argentina – 2009 – alcohol 13%
Argentina has a strong Italian heritage and many of the grape varieties were brought over by Italian inmigrants, particularly from Piedmon. The Bonarda grape – which originated in Piedmont – is a major grape in Argentina, second only to Malbec. It is generally lighter than Malbec and often considered to have some similarity with Pinot Noir and Gamay – the grape from Beaujolais. Sangivoese is the major grape of Chianti. The tasting wine is a 50% blendo of both grapes. It is made by the Familia Zuccardi company. The wine is organic. A lighter wine with notes of fresh strawberries, cherries and grapes. Goes well with pasta and pizza, and other tomato based dishes. An interesting example of a New World Italian wine. Many Australian producers – often also with a strong Italian heritage such as CCoriale - are developing Italian wines. Bonarda is difficult to find out of Argentina. Try Argentinian restaurants if you cannot find it in retailers.
Cave Saint Desirat Lirac – southern Rhone – 2007 – alcohol 14.5%
Lirac is a small appellation in the Southern Rhone, not far from Chateneuf du Pape. The Southern Rhone produces some powerful, fruity wines that can go well with barbecues often at reasonable prices. The tasting wine is a blend of Grenache, mainly, and Syrah, Mouvedre and Cinsault. It has plenty of flavors and the high alcohol is balanced by good acidity. The spiciness, from Syrah, can gpo well with spiced meats. 2007 was an extremely good vintage for the Southern Rhone. An alternative is Joncier Lirac, a simpler blend with more pronounced spice or smokiness. A more restrained, and lower priced, wine is the Celliers des Dauphins Tricastin with a 13% alcohol, mainly Grenache, strawberry and raspberry note, versatile enough to go well with white meats and grilled fish.
Carmenere – Elqui Valley, Chile – 2008 alcohol 14.5%
The Carmenere grapes were originally imported from Bordeaux in the late nineteenth century. Nowadays, there is little Carmenere left in Bordeaux. Carmenere has some similarity with Merlot and until 1993 it was assumed that the Carmenere grapes in Chile were Merlot. Then DNA testing revealed the difference… and concluded that around two thirds of Chilean Merlot grapes were in fact Carmenere. The grape ripens later than Merlot and this imparts more concentration of flvors. Its profile is somewhat between Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Chile now markets much of the previous Merlot more correctly as Carmenere. The tasting wine is produced in the far north of Chile, near the Atacama desert. This northerly location has plenty of sunshine and high temperatures are moderated by the coastal breezes – particularly at night. These conditions help to produce high alcohol, very flavorful wines. The tasting wine has a small amoung of Syrah – Shiraz – which adds a little spiciness. A rich, smooth wine with notes of dark cherries and perhaps even chocolate. Would go well with barbecues and spiced meats… and mushroom dishes. The soft tannins also suggest that this could be a satisfying drink without food – try this wine with a spicy barbecue, it will stand out outdoors over the barbecue smell.
Concha y Toro Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc – Maule Valley, Chile – 2006, alcohol 12%
There are many types of dessert wine, some perhaps more suited to summer drinking. The tasting wine has lots of tropical fruit flavors, including papaya and peach, with additional notes of honey. As with all well made sweet wines, the sweetness is balanced by very good – high – acidity. The result is a refreshing rather than cloying wine. Would go well with fruit based desserts such as apricot tart or simply a dish of mango and papaya. A perfect way to end a summer lunch.
